Not a great start as I was a 'twirly' (bus pass doesn't work til later) and also got off one stop too late. Thought I was awake but .... I did at least remember to get two bottles of water in case there were no cafes. After Zennor (and a similar experience in the Highlands) I'm making sure to have plenty.
Eventually the path runs along the top of a flood defence wall following the road. This whole wetland area has been subject to extensive drainage and control and is now lush farmland - as evidenced by the livestock. Plenty of sheep and Devon Red cattle for cute pictures (see Komoot, Debs!) The salt marshes on the seaward side are just beautiful; prime samphire territory too and I met one collector gathering for breakfast. Hmm, I like samphire but - for breakfast?
This enclosed area gives way to the Braunton Burrows (part of the North Devon Biosphere Reserve which has the largest sand dune system in England) about a third of which is a military training area. The signs say that exercises take place without warning and that it's a designated live firing area! Just to add to the atmosphere, the Marines are busy playing with their hovercraft (remember those?) on the estuaries. Oh well, as I recall from school days it's quite hard to hit anything even when you're aiming at it, so I'd be really unlucky to cop one today. Press on.
Before the path turns inland there's a glimpse of the estuaries, looking over towards Instow and Appledore (the Frigate was still there). It's a wonderful sight, this broad open scene and the smell of the sea.
The route from here is another flat hard pounding section along a hard core road, through the training area and past the golf course (where they also shoot rounds, come to think of it) but eventually, hallelujah, up a hill and to the beach at Saunton Sands which runs along the Burrows. I'm no longer surprised that it's just huge, as there have been so many like this but I'm pleased I didn't have to walk along it (see later!). One pint of tea later and it's off round the headland to Croyde Bay. This was my target for lunch and I made it across the beach, into Croyde and up to Baggy's surf cafe for a great lunchtime view and more re-hydration.
Immensely popular for
surfing, and with an 800m sandy beach, Croyde has hosted GoldCoast Oceanfest
since 1999, an annual surfing and music festival at around the time of
summer solstice. Saunton, Croyde and Woolacombe beaches are, unusually, all privately owned (although only as far as the high water mark).
Together they each face a slightly different direction so surfers don’t have to
go far when conditions change, which is one of the reasons for their popularity. Another, according to my B&B hostess, Sue, is the strong rip tides here which help to form good surf. Wouldn't want to come off the board, though, I'm thinking.
It looks fairly easy from here: round Baggy Point, down Napps cliff and along the beach to Woolacombe. Well, yes; but the heat was really starting to build now (about 1 pm and 28C: mad dogs and Englishmen eh?) and despite the distraction of an ice cream and er, lots of things to look at, that walk along the beach was nearly as mind-numbing as the Tarka trail to Barnstaple. It's 3 miles long and of course the soft sand makes for an energy-sapping trek. I may regret saying this but I'm really looking forward to a proper up-and-down coastal path with its expansive views and (hopefully) cooling breezes on the tops.
Mind you, it has to be said that the views from Baggy Point towards Lundy (you can see it in the photos now) and along the beach to Woolacombe are as spectacular as any on the Path.
and the brightly painted beach huts are fun:
Woolacombe has its fair share of new development and one at least with an inspired name, though I'm not sure what standard of customer service they expect ....
Woolacombe is part of the hugely popular surfing area here, and its 3 mile beach was rated as Britain’s best beach of 2015. It’s a shame
that the old crazy golf course was demolished: it had North Devon landmarks for
the holes with buildings made from local stone. Until 1948 the beach and much
of the surrounding land was owned by the Chichester family, who acquired it in
1133 during the reign of Henry I. During WW2 U.S. Army Assault Training Centre
was based at Woolacombe and used the beach to simulate amphibious landings on
Omaha beach. There’s a stone memorial to it all at the North end of the beach but sadly I'd missed it.
So I made it a little further on, to Mortehoe (where there's parking for the start of tomorrow's walk). This is a lovely little village, largely unspoilt, and my recommendation for a visit. I can vouch for the Ship Aground (more rehydration of course) and there's also a museum, a National Trust place, cafes, two churches.....
.... and away from the hubbub of the main resort.
So, tomorrow to Ilfracombe and on to Combe Martin where I'm staying. A tad under 12 miles (pah!) and just over 4,000 ft of climbing - joy unconfined - after which it's only 35 miles to go. The weather's set to break on Sunday so I might have a cooling finish. That'd be nice 😁😂.
Peter
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